Saturday, April 27, 2013

Chapter 39: For Jessica, Eric, and Beautiful Baby Avah Rose Johnson

On April 25th as I crossed into Maine, where Jess (my bestie) grew up, she gave birth to a gorgeous baby girl. It pained me not to be there to hold her new treasure and welcome Avah Rose Johnson to our world, but it is a great moment for us, as friends, for me to be living where she spent half of her life before our friendship began in Florida. I laughed so hard I was crying while talking over the phone and listening to her hilarious rendition of an insane birthing experience. Even though she struggled, I am so overjoyed that she has finally become a mother, something she's been dreaming of since we met.

Congratulations Jessica and Eric! You will make beautiful, loving parents to your little Avah Rose! I miss and love you so much and cannot wait for the day when I can hold your child in my arms.



Chapter 38: Into The (hamp)Shire Where It's Just So A-Maine-zing!

We crossed into New Hampshire on the most scenic coastal route of the trip so far! The state contains the shortest (yet absolutely stunning) coastline in the country. 1A is full of beautiful rocks cascading into the Atlantic on its short 18 miles. The views were just breathtaking.

Our destination was the town of Portsmouth where Danny, Zack's father's old high school buddy and avid cyclist, was to pick us up and put us up in Lee, NH. Danny is the man! We had so much fun talking bikes, farms, and life in general. His daughter, Jetta, and her partner, Burt, joined us for a Chinese takeout dinner and beer. Danny showed us his wood shop the next morning before we took off, where he designs and builds gorgeous furniture.

We crossed into South Berwick, Maine around noon! We finally made it to the last state! I was overwhelmed with joy all day long. Since we arrived so early I don't want to be done with the bike just yet, especially during this perfect weather, we decided to take our time through Maine and explore Portland over the weekend.

Just out of Saco I found a trail crossing Route 1. I immediately checked my Google Maps and discovered it hugged Route 1 all the way to Scarborough not far from a State Park where we decided to camp for my last night in the tent. The Eastern Trail was so beautiful that I was constantly jumping off the bike to shoot photos of the scenery when a guy riding a Surly Long Haul with an Ortlieb pannier rolled up to chat about my gear. Aaron, who lives in Portland, is going to Scotland at the end of May with his bicycle to ride to London. We absolutely had to talk more especially with Zack. Since they have a matching taste for touring bikes and panniers (Aaron's Surly is blue with black Ortliebs whereas Zack's is green with yellow panniers! So adorable), I knew a bromance was a brewin! We exchanged information and planned to meet up for a drink over the weekend.

Not 5 minutes after Aaron rode off to make it to dinner on time, Caroline stopped on her way home curious about self supported touring and our long trip. She asked where we usually stayed at night so I explained free camping and warm showers when she interjected to ask where we were staying that night. When I told her about the State Park up the rode she smiled and then chimed in "I have a warm shower, and I'm a lot closer to the trail than the State Park." I said " Well, if you're offering, Zack and I would certainly love a shower!" Although I my dreams of my last night in the tent were killed at this point I simply could not turn down an offer like that. I had been wanting, throughout the entire journey, for someone to randomly invite us into there home. So I was elated when Caroline and I exchanged information and then to tell Zack of the news after he had caught up.

Caroline is such a beautiful human being! She is always dipping her hands into new ventures and activities and really seems to live a fulfilling and exciting life. In talking with her and staying in her home I had a sort of epiphany. Throughout this journey I have not focused on making long term friends because I knew most people (with some exception of course) I would never see again. I was more interested in the short meaningful interactions with random strangers that would have a greater and more lasting effect on me. It dawned on me, while with Caroline, that this is my home for the next seven months and I need to make these connections last longer than a fleeting moment in passing. Over a lobster roll dinner, she spoke often about her off the grid Yurt in northern Maine and I look forward to spending some time there together this summer/fall gardening, knitting & crafting, or kayaking (just a few of the many things we have in common). Thank you so much, Caroline, for your wonderful random act of kindness!

The next morning we rode the 6 miles into Portland to eat lunch at Duck Fat (a restaurant we had been looking forward to since before we left). It was recommended to me by one of my customers in Florida and it was incredibly scrumptious with fries, doughnuts, and more all deep fried in duck fat! However, the best part about Duck Fat was not the food. We sat at a bar with a wall of magnetic poetry in front of us. We started out building phrases each taking turns with the words as a game as we waited for our food. It quickly morphed into a hilarious, inside, funky rendition of our journey together and a really phenomenal moment!

Then we met up with Aaron and his partner, Jamie for drinks and had a wonderful time talking about our experiences, bike trips, and non ultra lite set ups! I hope he and Zack can align their plans to do some UK riding together! With the guys overseas that will leave Jamie and I to get in some girl riding time! I've never had friends to bike around with until now... this really makes me smile!

We spent our last evening in Portland with Nancy, our warm showers host. She and her husband have biked around so many parts of the world. They did a huge 6 month long trip, in '87 before they started a family the beautiful photos, of which, decorate the walls and hallways of their home.

Before we headed to Bowdoinham, we stopped by Maine Bicycle Coalition's Bike Swap event and had a great time chatting with Mainers about our trip. We certainly attracted lots of attention from the Portland bike community!




I can't tell you how many times we crossed over and under 95


















Danny in his shop


Yay!!!


Maine had TWO signs welcoming us to the state






We both needed new chains. I had 3500 miles on mine... oops!


Working on our Poetic Masterpiece







A stunning photo of my bike taken by Aaron on the Eastern Trail


After drinks with Aaron and Jamie we stumbled upon great music! Thanks to The Reverie Machine

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Chapter 37: Let's Getchya Some Chowda

From Providence, I was planning to ride Route 1 all the way to Lexington, MA where we were staying with Amy, Stan, and Jonie, Zack's cousins. However, I happened to be 12 miles outside of Lexington when I realized it was only 1pm. So I rode west into Boston adding an extra 12 miles to the trip, making it a 60 mile day. When we arrived we got cleaned up and went out for Indian (which I had been craving since NY).

Boston has so many bike routes through the city and around the suburbs so I rode the Minuteman Bikeway, a 10 mile paved railtrail running from Bedford to Alewife, to a breakfast joint called The Friendly Toast, recommended by Colleen. This place was rad, with very eccentric decor, pancakes the size of vinyl records, and staff with more tattoos than me (I realize that's hard for some of you to imagine).

While in Jersey, my dad brought me my old Minolta SLR which still shoots film (also hard for some of you to imagine), so my second mission was to find a place that still does one hour photo processing. After many calls and many people who had no idea what I was referring to I finally found a CVS who was still equipped to do it. I dropped off a roll and headed down the SW Corridor path, which runs from the South End for 5 miles ending in Jamaica Plain, to the Samuel Adams Brewery.

Now I was never a big fan of the famous Boston Lager but I heard they have one of my favorite things in this entire world: FREE BEER! I also got quite the education from Jameson, my super awesome tour guide. I gained new knowledge of how to properly drink a Boston Lager, glassware and all, and have since developed a wonderful taste for the stuff. Where I would have normally reached for a Yuengling in the past I would now most definitely drink a Boston Lager. I had been drinking it wrong this entire time. I left with a Sam Adams sample glass and special instructions to obtain a free Sam Adams pint glass (I'll get to that in a minute) to make sure that never happens again.

When Jim Koch, founder of Sam Adams, would travel to Germany, Belgium, and Holland (just to name a few) he noticed that they serve certain beers in certain glassware. If they did not have the proper glassware for the beer you ordered then they would not serve you that beer. So Jim thought since he has the number one beer in America (many times over) it should have its own glass. He then went over to Cambridge, where they keep the wicked smaht people, to find a company who could make him a glass. He found one (I don't remember the name) who made wine glasses, champagne flutes, etc, but never a beer glass. So they said "Yea we'll make you a glass but we don't really know what your beer's like. So Jim gave them a keg of Boston Lager every week until they finished, and since they're wicked smaht, two years later they produced the Sam Adams Boston Lager glass.

Now back to my special instructions which were to board a trolley going to Doyle's, the first place to ever carry Samuel Adams, one of the oldest bars in the country (over 130 years old), and the site of many famous films including Mystic River. This trolley was no ordinary one. This was the party bus of all trolley's, blasting "Oh What a Night" with a disco ball and little l.e.d. flashy lights all over the place. Every time you say Doyle's you gotta do the fist pump (you'll see later). It was the hippest trolley ever!

Doyle's carries two very rare Sam Adams beers on draught. One being the Brick Red, which you cannot find outside Boston and another, even more rare, called 26.2 Boston Brew. This beer is only available during the Boston Marathon season (a mere weeks) and only available at pubs and bars along the marathon's route. Doyle's is the only exception to that rule being Samuel Adam's first account. It is brewed with coriander, and the water used in the brewing process contains Kosher Sea Salt. It is unfiltered, crisp and clean with a mineral after taste for runners, endurance sport enthusiasts, and spectators alike. Of course my favorite beer is the one that is only available for one month out of the year and in only one city in the country.

Since the tragedy all proceeds from the 26.2 will go to the victims affected.

I enjoyed my Brick Red and 26 with a big bowl of amazing New England Clam Chowder, which I will never consume anywhere else again because it just doesn't live up to the real thing.

On my way out of Boston, my phone had died making it difficult for me to navigate my way back to the Minuteman Bikeway. As I was crossing the river on Massachusetts Ave. I had stopped to take a photo when a cyclist passed me making the sound effect of a race car as it passes you. I instantly knew he was cool. I caught up to him, asked him for directions, and he informed me he was also going to Lexington. How convenient! Jeff and I rode together as the sun set over Boston through the Minuteman Bikeway to Lexington. We had a great ride accompanied by wonderful conversation. As we passed through Porter Square Jeff informed me that during the 1800's farmers from New Hampshire, Vermont, and Maine would bring their cattle into the square to be sold and butchered and hence the name Porter Steak was born. Unfortunately we were unable to exchange information as it was getting dark and dinners were ready and waiting so Jeff if you ever see this...Thanks so much for riding with me!

My day was so fabulous that I did it all over again, from start to finish, including the film (because how often do you find a one hour photo these days). After I raved over The Friendly Toast and Sam Adams to Zack, he really wanted to go, and I will take free beer any day, any time, any where.

While in Lexington Amy, Stan, and Jonie made us two wonderful traditional Jewish dinners in their Kosher house. We had brisket with knish, and for dessert halava, a sugary sesame paste treat with some chocolate. The second night was white fish (the whole fish), lox, tomatoes, bagels and cream cheese. I really enjoyed learning about being Kosher and spending time with Zack's extended family. Thank you so much Amy, Stan, and Jonie for showing us a wonderful time!



Tasty Rhode Island Beer


Zack and Adama playing djembe at Shahla's in Rhode Island


Patriot's Stadium I passed on Route 1


There existed no signs welcoming me in or out of Massachusetts. So this will have to do. Those Massholes!


Looking at Cambridge from Mass Ave.


Boston Police Officers who were so kind to watch my bike when I couldn't hold my pee any longer and I did not want to leave it unlocked and unattended


The biggest cup of coffee I've ever been served at a restaurant, part of the charm of The Friendly Toast




MIT where the wicked smaht people are


Looking at Boston from Mass Ave.


Dad, Aunt Jacki, and Uncle Mike close your eyes, you may go blind looking at this photo


My awesome free sample glass filled with awesome free beer


Party Trolley (notice the disco ball up top)


Doyle's fist pump




My awesome free lager glass filled with awesome (not free) beer. The amount it cost to drink this beer was donated to people who are very much in need so I happily paid for it. Best beer I ever bought in more ways than one.


You know what this is and your jealous


Doyle's has 9 Sam Adams beers on tap, Sam Adams brewery has four


The friendly staff at The Friendly Toast


I was drawn to this bike post for obvious reasons, and I agree with this sticker




Round two at the brewery

Saturday, April 20, 2013

Chapter 36: For Zander...

Hey buddy! I told you I would write a bunch for you to read during this shitty time. I hope it's not too bad and you are feeling ok, as good as possible at least. You will get through it! You are in my thoughts and prayers always. It will be over before you know it and you can get back to a normal life outside of crappy hospitals! Love You lots!

Chapter 35: I'm So In Love With My Sleeping Bag That I Have to Write a Post About It

While in NY, I got a new sleeping bag because my old one was only rated to 30 degrees and it was pretty bulky and heavy. I thought the temperature would be warm enough but it just wasn't getting the job done. I found a 10 degree rated, down sleeping bag at the REI outlet that was super inexpensive and is super light and compact. I am so in love with this thing. No more wrapping myself up in the emergency blanket that doesn't release moisture. This sleeping bag is the shit. Combined with my super light, comfortable and compact sleeping pad it's like sleeping on a cloud with the angels in heaven. I am so happy that I look forward to using it at night and I'm now getting upset when I get to sleep in an actual bed.

I can't believe I lived this long without you, and you're so light that I don't mind packing you up and lugging you around on my bike.

Chapter 34: Escape to the Mainland

On my way to Sag Harbor I discovered that the Block Island Ferry did not begin running until May. We rerouted to take the south ferry to Shelter Island, the north ferry to Greenport, and then the Orient Point Ferry to New London, Connecticut, a state we did not plan on passing through.

In Greenport, I ordered a hot pastrami sandwich with melted cheese, coleslaw, and Russian dressing at Sterlington Deli from Freddie who was so much fun! While I ate, I met Joe, who had done some touring in Germany. A very cute and quiet boy that I could not get out of my head for the rest of the ride. I was in such a hurry to catch the next ferry that I didn't exchange information with him or think to ask if he wanted to ride with me. I would have greatly enjoyed his company during the windy 9 mile stretch to Orient Point. Maybe we will meet around some day.

I made the ferry with four minutes to spare. Roy, who worked on the boat, sat with me most of the hour long ride discussing great route options and advising me on good camping spots throughout Rhode Island. We took his advice which was supreme riding and camping conditions! Thanks Roy!

I hung out in New London, CT at a very down to earth coffee shop, Muddy Waters Cafe, where Barry and Susan were so accommodating. They let me hang out for an extra half hour after closing while I charged my phone and blogged for a bit while I enjoyed coffee cake and a Red Eye. Before I left Susan gave me a banana and two granola bars for the remaining 15 miles of the day. Thank you so much to you both! That Oskri Cashew Bar was incredibly delicious! I am dying to find more of those!

We stealth camped at Barn Island Wildlife Refuge, one of Roy's suggestions. The fog had really settled in over night and lingered on into the morning which made the ride pretty interesting. It was very scenic through the coast of Rhode Island.

After a 65 mile day I arrived at Shahla's house, our Warm Showers host in Providence. She is so well traveled and cultured and it was such a pleasure talking with her about her experiences. Her friend Sidy stopped by for one of her amazing lates. He is a Master Percussionist from Mali, West Africa. He took us all to The Spot to listen to some live music, a super fierce jam band, and worked some social magic to comp our cover. I hadn't been out like that in a long time and it was so much fun! Shahla graciously let us stay an extra day to get some work done while the Boston craziness blows over a little (we will be biking the 47 miles to Lexington tomorrow). We cooked dinner while babysitting Adama, Sidy's son, and all enjoyed a fabulous meal and wine together. Shahla made a delicious lamb, okra, and spinach dish, a combination of an Iranian and Malian recipe, sooo tasty!

My thoughts and prayers go out to those affected by the Boston bombing. I'm sad to be visiting such a wonderful city at such an awful time.







Freddie






I've started getting my state line photos as I'm leaving the state. I had just enough time to get this shot before boarding the ferry to CT.






Barry and Susan








I turned around to get the CT state line photo after crossing into RI


...and 5 minutes later






Breakfast at Shahla's and her delicious lates!